Ram Sethu

“carry forward from my old blog ”

Ram Sethu or Adam’s bridge is a landmass, much like a bridge, connecting India and Sri Lanka. Ram Sethu is a bridge of controversy ; some say it was created by Lord Ram, during his epic saga to save his wife and defeat evil, while others stick to the opinion of natural formation, still others are some who believe it was man-made but it had not witnessed any godly war as the epic of Ramayana claims.
But even the epic literature itself is not spared of controversies. Most say it was a war of good over evil and that evil was destroyed to restore the balance. Some others say Ravan, the evil king of Ramayana (every story needs a villain), who ruled Sri Lanka,then called Lankapuri, had kidnapped Sita (wife of Ram, the prince of Ayodhya, an ancient kingdom of northern India), not to make Sita his own wife but to celebrate her as the symbol of prosperity, humanity and humility of Lankapuri, as the myth of Sita’s birth was that she was the daughter of goddess earth (Bhoomi Devi).

No matter what would have been the truth, Ram Sethu resides in most Indian hearts as a symbol of victory of good over evil, the victory of love and humanity.

This story, perhaps more like an incident, took place in an orphanage near a small place known as Kurudampalayam, at Coimbatore. I was at my cousin’s place enjoying my vacation; well, kind of… It’s the only place, considering my relatives’ circle where I love to spend more than a day in a row.

It was a fine Dussehra evening, and preparations for the celebration were in order (Dussehra is a festival that symbolized the day when Ravan was defeated by Ram). Although the preparations were not as grandeur as one from north India would assume, it was still an enjoyable one. I was sipping my special cup of dark coffee when my uncle called me to join him for a ride to someplace, and he did not forget to mention to take my camera. Almost instantly I figured out my role was to be a photographer, and that I am to get hell bored at some meeting. So I dragged along my cousin who was then busy packing some sweets so that I won’t be all alone getting bored.

But the ride stopped when we reached an orphanage, must say I was least expecting this, and we joined a group of nearly twenty persons. I came to know that they were all members of NSS covai unit, (NSS is an acronym for Nair Service Society), and they were there to sponsor for a three-course dinner to all inmates of that orphanage. I felt good and irritated at the same time. I felt good because it was a good deed that they were feeding the needy, and for most Indians including me, feeding the hungry is the greatest good one can do in their life. I felt irritated because I never liked to be a part of any religious groups or institutions, though I always enjoy having spiritual or religious debates with free thinkers and religious individuals with no preset mind.

I slowly left the group and joined a group of children, who were fascinated by my camera, which I took along due to my uncle’s special note. I enjoyed the short period with them, had a nice conversation, and I was very happy when I came to know that it is a very rare occasion for them when they can have good and tasty food and that I am a part of such an occasion.

The spirit of sharing in me rose up quite high, and on seeing that vibrant and sparkling happiness on all those children. I thanked in my heart to all those in the NSS covai unit, though I was quite sure that it will be made into small box news in next daily. A view quite common in India, that I strongly oppose; I call it ‘Do your good and publish it’ policy.

But all those controversial thoughts were set aside and I enjoyed my time with all those children. But during those moments of enjoyment, I saw a small girl, must have been 12 or 13 years of age or even less walking towards the orphanage gate holding her plate of food.

I ran to her and asked, “Where are you going?”, I was rather concerned than amazed at seeing a young inmate of that orphanage going towards the gate alone in the dark with her plate of food. In my mind, my expression was like, “What the hell!! Where is she going!!!”. She was very clam and was expecting this; if not from me from someone else. She smiled and asked to join her most politely that no one could refuse it. Since our conversation was in the Tamil language, the translation would suggest somewhat like, “Will you accompany me, brother, I am a bit afraid of the dark, and also you will know why I want to go there”.

We reached the gate, and near the pillar by the side of the orphanage gate rested a very old man. From his appearance, he was clearly a beggar. The little girl reached forth for a plantain leaf that grew near the gate and gave him all her food served in that plantain leaf. Happiness, amazement, astonished; I still don’t remember the mixture of emotions I had at that moment, but that teardrop I shed at that very moment is the most worthy one I ever had.

I asked her, “What is your name?”, “Mozhi”, she replied, which meant ‘language’, in Tamil. I smiled keeping a soliloquy to mind, “Indeed she is the language of love”. I asked her, “I came to know that such occasions are very rare in your orphanage, it is the only time you can eat a stomach full. Then why did you give your meal to him”. She replied, “Yes brother, what you heard is true, and I am hungry; that is also true. But I can sleep today with an empty stomach, and eat my breakfast tomorrow. It won’t be this big but still, it is edible. I saw this man today eating his own faeces out of hunger. He needs food more than me”, she smiled and walked back into the orphanage.

This was the moment when I found my Ram Sethu, the bridge of love, compassion and humanity, the existence and triumph of good over evil. I was not sure what the evil was but I was sure the light of goodness prevailed on this Dussehra night, and it came, not from the wisdom of white hair, but from the love of an innocent 12-year-old, Mozhi.

Where Silence Spoke

Silence is often referred to as the melancholiest of emotions and spiritual awakenings but silence in every corner of life shares the spirit of humanity. This is a story that was shared with me by a man I came across during my own travel, in search of my own story. To put in his own words; Ramshankar was a man, noble by birth, traveller by life and a human by soul.

Travelling through Konkan rail usually is awe-inspiring due to its magical misty mornings. But this time I was welcomed with peak time summer noon. The usually noisy train compartment was silent and all around I could spot only weary faces tired out by the summer sun. The train stopped at Udupi, a station south side of Karnataka. As the train stopped, the strong urine stench gushed into the entire bogie that forced me to temporarily leave my seat with a sarcastic soliloquy, “Incredible India”, and rested on a granite bench on the railway platform. I entered back when the train gave its signal to leave. When I reached my seat I was welcome with a warm smile from a new co-traveller who had occupied the seat next to me. “Ramshankar”, he offered me a handshake as he greeted me with his own name. Finally, I got a travel companion who had no strain of summer sun in him.

Sizing his age from the man he was, is still a daunting task. When I asked, sometime in between our conversation, he replied, ”What is there in age, when you are still sixteen at heart”. He would have been at his fifties probably, but the salted beard, wrinkled eyes, sun tanned skin suggests his age must be a lot less than what he looks like. But the glitter in his eyes cannot hide the wisdom he had gained all these years.

“So where are you going”, Ramshankar asked. To my surprise, his question was in English, which I least expected (I was expecting Hindi or Telugu from him), and still more stunned to hear a crystal Royal British dialect from a man who had a figure close to nomads or even beggars. “To Murudeshwar”, I replied while still in shock. “Oh, so a visit to shiv temple, I presume? There is hardly anything else there”, Ramshankar made a quite confident statement. To this, I smiled and replied, ”I will visit the shiv temple for sure but my primary cause is something else”; still sceptic if Ramshankar can understand what scuba diving is, which was my intention of travel. Again to my surprise, Ramshankar replied, “So you are there to explore the depths at Netrani islands. It is really an inspiring moment to be one with the ocean. Have you dived before?”. Now, this caught my attention, I replied, “No, this is my first time, and I am really excited to know how it is; but how do you know all this; what do you actually do for a living”. This time I was excited, sceptical, and amazed all at the same time. The slight smile which Ramshankar always had burst into laughter as he understood I was taken aback by his contradicting appearance and behaviour. After a short pause, he replied, “I am a noble by birth, traveller by life and a human by soul. I was a software developer of that era when even the term was not coined. I worked till thirty-five and started to live after that”.

Surprises were coming back to back that I could hardly find any time to get relieved of a previous shock. An unusually long pause sustained. It was Ramshankar who broke the silence with a quite different genre of a question, “What do you think about death?”. “Silence, complete silence”, I replied, because it was the first thought that came to my mind on hearing Ramshakar’s question.

“So its silence that defines death to you. How contrasting are our thoughts”, Ramshankar replied, he continued, “Silence to me defines joy, it defines the spirit of humanity, the spirit of sharing”.

“I have associated silence with sadness and death from my childhood. Silence to me always meant my saddest thoughts. Yes, they are memories that I never want to forget, but still, they are the saddest of all, and when silent moments prevail, they always turn up reflecting my emotions”. I shared my point of view with Ramshankar.

“It is not just for you, it is the same for countless many. It is but my experiences that made me think otherwise”, Ramshankar fixed his eye on the farther end of the compartment, the view of which was hidden to me, due to the separation wall. As he made his statement fixing his eye on that hidden point, his ever-present smile naturally broadened, and it felt like, he wasn’t just making up statements, but the statements flowed from his perceptions about nature, even the very scene he was observing that very moment contributed.

Curious, as I had been, from my oldest of memories, I stood up to stoop and peek to get a glance of what he was watching, that made him so self-content. At that far end of the compartment, I saw two young lads fifteen or sixteen years of age perhaps. They were quite happy and laughing out, but due to the distance and the rattling of the train bogie, I could not hear what their topic of discussion was. But it did not take a long before they started their next conversation, and it was all in sign language. Now I knew why Ramshankar smiled.

“They are from the deaf and dumb aid school at Udupi”, I heard Ramshankar’s voice, but vaguely as I was preoccupied with my own thoughts. Those young lads were happy and carefree, all they had were full of positive aura, and all around them seemed to be happy due to the positive energy these two spreads, when all they knew, all their life was silence. Ramshankar patted on my shoulder and whispered, “I believe you do understand it now”. I nodded back, “Yes, I really do”, but this time I kept the words to myself and let the silence speak.

A Kheerganga Diary

My first love taught me love knows no relation, the second one taught me love is the only religion, the third one taught me love is also about letting go. But when I was kissed by the breeze she carried, I felt no iron bridge on which I stood. I felt peace in her thunderous roar. She was soft as a mother, loving as a soulmate and strong as a woman. I skipped a heartbeat, took a deep breath as I realized, love is not about relation, religion, letting go or fighting for. The ultimate form of love is peace; a point in oneself where there are no botheration of past nor there is any anticipation on future. A point when you realize only the very moment you live in matters.

I stood on the iron bridge at Rudranag, crossing a gorge made by my new found love, the Parvathy river.

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As I packed my backpack along with a quest to explore the Himalayas on 10th of August 2016, I least expected a life changing experience. Ironically enough my sojourn started at Gandhi Peace Foundation at Deen Dayal Upadhayay Marg, New Delhi. I was greeted with clam and smiling faces along with a delightful vegetarian breakfast. The hustling Delhi; travel in metro rail, shopping therapy at Paharghanj and Sarojini Nagar, left me tired by the time I reached ISBT, at Kashmeere Gate, to board my bus to Bhuntar. The sixteen hour tediously long bus journey was complemented with bumpy roads and cramped bus seats, a hard travel indeed. However the tiredness got over me at some point and I fell asleep. Next day morning I was greeted with the sight of merging of two rivers; the Parvathy with clear blue waters and white rapids and the the Beas murky and sluggish carrying sediments from atop. This depicted to me as the junction point of life when your clarity of thoughts are clouded by the murky sediments of your past. The point geographically marked the starting point of Bhuntar and to me the transition point towards self realization.

As we (myself and travel buddies) marched towards Tosh; our first point; I felt as if I am leaving the reality behind and moving towards a fantasy or dream. with each step laughters vanished, mumbles grew dull and all I could hear were the whistling winds, and the distant rapids and maelstrom of the Parvathy. I though “this is peace at its best”, but never did I knew what Kheerganga had for me.

The sun touched golden peaks woke me up the next day, and we were ready for our next adventure, the trek to Kheerganga. Himalayas has that golden route rule, “one way up and the same way down”, and so we trekked down, all the way from Tosh to our starting point Pulga Dam site (nearly a kilometer from the Barsheni village). From this base point the trek measures 16km crossing 2 mountains.

The trek started out at 12:00 hours from the base point after a light and savoury breakfast, (I loved those momos, thank you kishan bhaiyya), packed our bags with some sweet buns and a bottle of water. From the very start the heavy backpacks stretched out my muscles, as the starting mile itself declared, “Himalayas will test your limits”. The first quarter mile itself had me panting and craving for rest; I then knew the real challenge is yet to be revealed. The first mountain offered us tough climbs and level paths, testing our endurance; but adding to that was the scorching sun who drained us all our strength. But the will carried us to the Nakthan Village. Nakthan greeted us  with smiling faces and greenest green apples, fresh pluck from farms, shade from the sun and Lime juice to rejuvenate our body. Ravinder, a 70 year old shop owner, shared his part of life story when he visited Kerala (we hailed from Thiruvananthapuram, southernmost district of Kerala), a time when Kerala was untouched by pollution and concrete forests. Time flew off, so did our short rest; we bid farewell to Ravinder, and to all smiling faces, fed the apple leftover to the cows and headed forward. The small village disappeared  with a mountain curve and our slow paces carried on. I heard my travel buddy whisper his favorite kannada quote “Vande road munde hogi”, which according to him (even he is not sure), meant “The road is ahead and so should be your steps”; whether or not true this gave us an inspiration to walk forward, leaving the past as past.

Nakthan to Rudranag was a short trail but the sun had now become unforgiving, shade was sparse and the mountain springs absent. with Our ration of water long consumed, we were like dried up sponge, but in a distance we saw it; the holy site of Rudranag. The short and slow steps carried us to Rudranag, a stop for water and the starting point of second mountain. We saw the iron bridge accross the Parvathy, which joins the mountains. Till that very end sun was strong, but the moment our steps were on that bridge, a gush of cold winds enrobed us taking away with it all the exhaustion we had. To me, it was my new found love, as it is always said, your love is where you can rest your worries. As that gush of wind encircled me, or rather I would say kissed me, not just exhaustion was carried away, it took with it all the worries and anticipation I had, the work, the lost love, the family, the acquaintances, all that I had, all I thought of, and when I crossed that bridge all that mattered to me was the climb.

The second mountain was steeper and ready to test our breaking point; but by the time I crossed that bridge, a new man was born, someone inside me whom I never knew of. My steps were slower my breath normal, I was so calm that no mountains could move me. Very long back once I read “Peace is every step”, by Thich Nhat Hanh, it had influenced me in my life but never did I realize the true meaning of the book until this point of life. The terrain changed, it was unforgiving with extremely steep climbs, wet slippery surfaces; but this time we were not in ration water, the mountain, was quite generous with fresh water streams and springs every where. We moved on like snails but with entirely peaceful mind, we rested on rocks enjoying every breath we take, realizing, back home is fantasy and dream’, this is reality. The last 4.4 km (the second mountain), took us 3 hours to trek and finally we reached the Kheerganga, the place where Lord Shiva is believed to have underwent tapasya for 3000 years (although the word “Tapasya” translates to austerity in English; tapasya actually is just a super refined art of self control and surrender). We rested our sore muscles in the lush green meadows, enjoyed the sunset, setup our tent for the night, and nice cozy campfire for warmth. The crickets, wild ponies and cows grazed by our side; we had a friendly ‘snowy’ (thanks to Rahul for that name), a dog from some camp house down below; adding flavors to fire side stories we shared.

The next morning I had was probably the most beautiful one I ever saw; I had my camera in bag but never did I even think of getting it out, because I knew, no camera could capture the majestic elegance of the view we had (thanks to Rahul and Jyothish, whose photos are the once I shared here). Encircling us were the great Himalayas where each peaks more elusive than the others, the winds howled through the mountain passes and slid through us in a calm demeanor. My mind was still in that state of calmness and urged to complete the mission; to take the dip in the hot springs of Kheerganga. And we marched, to Parvathy Kund; the hot water spring, had a bath and brushed our teeth outside the hot water pool (as it is a holy site and not a recreational pool). We could not dip ourselves first as the water was too hot, but our body, by now, were accustomed to extremities and adapted at a very  fast rate. We had a rather short dip, of around 30 minutes as hot water dips are not very comfortable for body (atleast for us), when we decided to climb out of the pool. As I walked away from that pool to the nearby rock where I left my dress; I realized it was not the same me anymore, even the man I discovered in me yesterday on that bridge vanished. As I sat on that rock staring at infinity, I experienced the true meaning of peace, all my botheration and anticipation vanished, there was no more sense of present, the sense of moment “now” also vanished; amidst all the sounds and voices around, I only heard one sound. Its was my own breath- the inhale and the exhale. What occurred to me at that point was my spiritual self realization, what I felt was coexistence of birth, sustenance and death; a new life when you start to inhale, sustenance of life till you complete inhalation, and death as you exhale; and what my mind spoke then was “Om!”, as it occurred to me this was the true meaning of Omkara. I sat there near the temple, on the rock for hours together, losing track of time and nature, staring at the infinity, living with the new realization I had.

But some say good things are not forever. As the descend started I knew I had left a part of my soul up there, but I carried in me what Kheerganga let me discover, and those will last till the end of my time. If there is a wish I could have; let my urn of ashes be spread into the Parvathy at Rudranag, for in her depths my mortal remains shall rest, my laughter be heard in the howling winds, my hugs in the winds to all those who come; for if I am in her lap, I am finally at peace.

Chittar- A reflection of seasons

Chittar, situated 65km from Thiruvananthapuram, just turn about from Kerala – Tamil Nadu border; Chittar dam is one of the most eye soothing experience one can get. This like any other place, is unique in its own terms, and to miss this place even after you have a chance to visit Thiruvananthapuram, ( Kerala, India), will be like skipping your heartbeat to stay in your cozy and luxurious resort room. Since I like my pounding heart and being a wandering explorer myself, I decided to take a ride to this one stop with my friends. Although only 65 km of distance from Thiruvananthapuram; the travel time will be from 1.5 hours to 2 hours, owing to the road conditions.

The best time to visit chittar is the winter monsoons, when the climate is cooler and the sun not so harsh. Chittar Dam consists of 2 dams Chittar 1 and Chittar 2. Connected with each other via an internal road, a long romantic stroll along the walls of chittar under an umbrella with light showers bestowed upon is the best romantic scenic a rain-o-phile can get. However the rain-o-phobic also has the unique advantage of getting clear skies in summer, although the heat can get little harsh. The travel essentials while travelling to chittar will  be an umbrella and bottle of water per person. The humidity is pretty high so you will require water for rehydration.

Chittar 2 and Chittar 1 has crystal clear waters and the reflection of the short and green peaks nearby is the uniqueness of the place. Chittar is not a general tourist destination and so you won’t see any rush at all. Don’t be surprised if it is just you walking around. It is a perfect retreat or family outing spot where you can carry in your picnic bags and have a great outing experience. But please be responsible and do not litter, and help it maintain its uniqueness.

Some experiences are to be felt not captured, so is Chittar. Being a Dam site photography is strictly prohibited so you wont be allowed in with Digital or Video cameras. This is allowed only on attaining special permission.

Chittar is also an unique place for fishing. Although 80% are small fishes, most of them are special delicacies like “karimeenu”, “Varaal” etc. For less fishing enthusiasts, you can also buy them if you can reach chittar by around 8am, when local fishermen catch them and sell it near the dam “Fresh and Wriggling” (saying in LoTR language).

Some resorts has also sprung up during recent days and you can also plan on a stay there. If you are a foodie and a non-vegan, then whatever you do, do not ever miss to have food from “Vazhiyoram” (a restaurant), on your way back from chittar. Plan your lunch there, and look out for mouth watering non-veg dishes, along with Kerala’s own “Kappa” (cooked tappioca).

Route map and small set of photos are attached. enjoy 🙂

Chittar Route Map From Thiruvananthapuram Central Railway Station

Image Gallery

Owing to Photography restrictions, all shown photos were taken with mobile camera, taking into consideration and respecting its strategic location and all security concerns.

10 random shots from 10 places

Description embedded within the gallery. All shots captured with canon 550D. Sorry for the low resolution, I had to bring down the picture size to save space.

A hike to Kodachatri- peak with mystic serenity

Located in Shimoga district, Karnataka, Kodachatri is one of the most mystic peaks in India one can ever experience. At an elevation of 4,400 ft from mean sea level, it is a perfect hike point for all adventure junkies. But its not the adventure adrenalin that will enthral us during kodachatri hike. It will be but the mystic serenity you feel even when your heart pounds at your steady climbing rate. Kodachatri trekking is medium level trekking due to steep uneven slopes and slippery terrain. Rains are quite common and is at 24 x 7 dew point, so if you are carrying your camera make sure you protect it well.

The hike point starts from Nittur. From there you can either start the hike or rent a jeep to travel up the peak to an interim point from where your hike can begin. Its an unladen rough terrain and requires more of experience than your luxurious 4×4’s power to pull up through the road, so I advice to rent a jeep (it is indeed a wonderful journey, the drivers’ skill are just awesome). Bikes can get a up the hill, but still normal ones wont do, also here the “Indian road cruncher”, enfield, will simply wont do as the clearance should be pretty high. Any off-road bikes can handle the task, but should be careful as the roads are damp and muddy and you will be drifting all the way up 😛

From Nittur the Jeep rent is 1200 INR, and from here you wont get a per person sharing basis Jeeps. If your budget is low or if you like more of a hippie travel, get to Kollur (where Mookambika Temple is situated), and near the temple you can easily hear “kodachatri…… kodachatri…. kodachatri….” call from local jeep drivers. From here the rent is 300 INR but its based on per person. So if you plan on a unique only family/friends trip, you got to hire from Nittur itself.

If its your first trip to Karnataka state dont ever forget to taste the ethnic “Kesar bath” dish. Use public transport and interact with as much locals as possible, they are very helpful and will guide you to some of the most exotic places like hidlumane falls, Nagara fort etc.

Here are some of my random shots at Kodachatri